Patchouli
Patchouli oil is the volatile oil distilled from the dried and part fermented leaves of Pogostemon cablin. Its heavy, earthy, woody odour and its exceptional tenacity make it one of the great fixatives of perfumery: it holds a fragrance on skin and on fabric far longer than most naturals, which is why it appears in a very large share of fine fragrances, and in soap, detergent, air care and personal care where the odour must survive processing and storage. It is also the source of patchoulol and of the norpatchoulenol used in further aroma chemistry.
Listed patchouli markets
Each line is a grade at a delivery point. Open one for its full specification and terms.
Grades
Patchouli is traded on the patchoulol figure, on the iron content that produces the dark colour, and on the distillation route. Colour is a specification here, not a cosmetic detail, because it comes from the still and it is contracted.
Botanical source and extraction route
12 grades
| Grade | Definition |
|---|---|
| Pogostemon cablinDried leaf, steam distilled | The only botanical the trade recognises for the article. Related Pogostemon species are separate and are declared. |
| Leaf drying and fermentationDeclared, with the method and the duration | Patchouli is one of the few oils where the material is deliberately dried and part fermented before distillation. The step builds the odour and it is a contract term. |
| Dark patchouliDistilled in an iron still, with the iron content declared | The traditional dark article. The colour comes from iron picked up in distillation and the market prices it separately. |
| Light or iron free patchouliDistilled in stainless steel | A pale oil for applications where colour transfer matters. Same botanical, different article. |
| Redistilled or rectifiedDeclared, with the fraction | Used to lighten colour and to lift patchoulol. |
| Molecular distilled or decolourisedDeclared | A processed article with its own specification. |
| Steam distilledDistilled in steam from the named plant part, with the charge and the run time declared | The default route for most essential oils. The cut taken off the still is a contract term, because a first cut and a full run are not the same oil. |
| Supercritical carbon dioxide extractExtracted with carbon dioxide at a stated pressure and temperature | A separate article with its own profile. It is not interchangeable with the distilled oil. |
| AbsoluteSolvent extracted to a concrete, then washed with ethanol and the ethanol removed | Sold on its own specification, with the residual solvent limit stated. |
| OrganicCertified under the destination market scheme, distilled and stored on dedicated equipment | Named with the certifier and the certificate number. |
| Age of the oilDeclared, with the batch date | Patchouli is one of the few oils that improves with controlled ageing, and aged stock is contracted and priced as such. |
| Batch and distillation dateDeclared, with the still and the campaign identified | Essential oils change in the drum. A batch without a date cannot be assessed. |
Physicochemical identity
8 grades
| Grade | Definition |
|---|---|
| Relative density at 20 degrees CelsiusRange, by ISO 279 | The first identity check, and the fastest way to catch a carrier oil. |
| Refractive index at 20 degrees CelsiusRange, by ISO 280 | Read on a refractometer at a stated temperature. |
| Optical rotation at 20 degrees CelsiusRange in degrees, by ISO 592 | The term that separates a natural oil from a synthetic reconstruction, because most synthetics are optically inactive. |
| Miscibility in ethanolVolumes of ethanol at a stated strength to give a clear solution, by ISO 875 | Measured, not judged. |
| Acid valueMaximum, by ISO 1242 | Rises with age and with poor storage. It is the ageing indicator the trade reads first. |
| Ester valueRange, by ISO 709 | Sets the sweet fraction in oils where esters carry the odour. |
| Appearance and colourAgainst a sealed reference sample, or an instrumental scale | Recorded on the certificate for each batch. |
| Flash pointDegrees Celsius, closed cup | A transport classification term as well as a quality one. It travels on the dangerous goods declaration. |
Chromatographic profile
8 grades
| Grade | Definition |
|---|---|
| Patchoulol, patchouli alcoholPercentage of total peak area, floor stated | The single commercial specification. Thirty percent and above is the common contracted band and the price moves with it. |
| alpha-bulnesenePercentage of total peak area, range | A principal sesquiterpene, reported on every certificate. |
| alpha-guaienePercentage of total peak area, range | Reported. |
| seychellenePercentage of total peak area, range | Reported. |
| alpha-patchoulene and beta-patchoulenePercentage of total peak area, range | Reported. |
| NorpatchoulenolPercentage of total peak area | Present at low level and a strong contributor to the odour. |
| PogostolPercentage of total peak area, range | Reported. |
| Full profile against the reference batchEvery peak accounted for | The sesquiterpene pattern is the fingerprint. A patchoulol figure on its own proves nothing. |
Authenticity and adulteration
10 grades
| Grade | Definition |
|---|---|
| Iron contentMilligrams per kilogram, declared | Contracted on both sides. A dark oil must carry it and a light oil must not. |
| Gurjun, copaiba and vetiver balsam additionNil, declared | Cheap sesquiterpene oils used to extend patchouli. Detected on the full sesquiterpene profile. |
| Spent leaf and second run oilDeclared | Oil from a re-distilled charge is a lower article and is named. |
| Vegetable oil and diluentNil, declared | Caught on the density and on the non volatile residue. |
| Full chromatogram against a reference profileEvery peak accounted for, with the reference batch named | The whole trace is the specification, not the two or three headline markers. Adulteration hides in the peaks nobody contracted. |
| Enantiomeric ratio, chiral gas chromatographyRatio of the optical isomers of the named marker compounds | The definitive test for synthetic addition. A nature identical molecule is still the wrong molecule at the isomer level. |
| Stable isotope ratio analysisCarbon and hydrogen isotope ratios, by mass spectrometry | Detects synthetic and non plant carbon sources. Contracted where the value of the oil justifies it. |
| Added carrier and diluentNil, declared | Vegetable oil, dipropylene glycol, benzyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate and ethanol. Tested for, because the density alone will not catch a small addition. |
| Cross species and cross grade blendingNil, declared | Cheaper related species blended into a premium oil. Detected on the full profile. |
| ReconstitutionNil, declared | Oil rebuilt from isolates to hit a marker specification. It will pass a marker test and fail a full profile. |
Contaminants, safety and regulatory
8 grades
| Grade | Definition |
|---|---|
| Peroxide valueMaximum | Oxidation is the main quality loss in transit and in store. It is also what turns a benign oil into a sensitiser. |
| Pesticide residuesMilligrams per kilogram, against the destination market limits | Distillation concentrates lipophilic residues, so the limit is applied to the oil and not to the crop. |
| Heavy metalsMilligrams per kilogram | Lead, cadmium, arsenic and mercury. |
| Phthalates and plasticisersMilligrams per kilogram | Picked up from drums, liners and hoses rather than from the plant. |
| Residual solventMilligrams per kilogram, where the article is an extract or an absolute | Nil for distilled oils, and a stated limit for extracts. |
| Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbonsMicrograms per kilogram | Comes from direct fire stills and from smoke contact at origin. |
| Allergen declarationPercentage of each declarable fragrance allergen present | Required for cosmetic use in most destination markets. It is calculated from the chromatogram and it travels with the batch. |
| Safety data sheet and transport classificationIssued for the batch, with the UN number and packing group | A shipping document and a compliance document at once. |
Certification, documentation and packing
8 grades
| Grade | Definition |
|---|---|
| OrganicCertificate under the destination market scheme | EU, NOP, JAS or an equivalence arrangement, named with the certifier and the certificate number. |
| Fair trade or community benefit schemeCertificate and transaction certificate | Named scheme, with the transaction certificate issued against the specific batch. |
| Kosher and HalalCertificate from the named authority | Travels with the batch. |
| Cosmetic and food grade documentationSpecification, safety data sheet, allergen statement and IFRA conformity certificate | The document set is part of the goods. An oil delivered without it is not deliverable. |
| Non GMO and vegan declarationsDeclaration | Issued where the destination market or the customer requires it. |
| PackingDeclared: aluminium, epoxy phenolic lined steel or high density polyethylene, with the drum size and the net weight | The container is a specification term. Bare steel and unlined plastic will both change the oil. |
| Headspace and inert blanketingDeclared, with the gas and the fill level | Nitrogen blanketing and a full drum are how an oil holds its acid value and its peroxide value across a voyage. |
| Storage and transit temperatureDeclared, with the range and the monitoring method | Cool and dark, evidenced. Where the contract is silent, an arrival dispute over oxidation cannot be settled. |
Grades outside this list trade on request. Send us the contract specification you work to and we will price against it.
Locations
| Country | Region | We trade it as |
|---|---|---|
| Indonesia | Sulawesi, Sumatra, Aceh, Java | Origin and destination |
| India | Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Assam | Origin and destination |
| China | Guangdong, Hainan, Guangxi | Origin and destination |
| Malaysia | Peninsular, Sabah | Origin and destination |
| Vietnam | Central Highlands | Origin and destination |
| Philippines | Mindanao | Origin and destination |
| Madagascar | Eastern coast | Origin and destination |
| Brazil | Bahia, Para | Origin and destination |
| Sri Lanka | Central | Origin and destination |
| Thailand | Southern | Origin and destination |
| Myanmar | Shan, Ayeyarwady | Origin and destination |
| Cambodia | Nationwide | Origin and destination |
| Papua New Guinea | Momase | Origin and destination |
| Solomon Islands | Guadalcanal | Origin and destination |
| Seychelles | Mahe | Origin and destination |
| Comoros | Anjouan | Origin and destination |
| Ivory Coast | Southern | Origin and destination |
| Nigeria | Southeast | Origin and destination |
| Colombia | Amazonas, Valle del Cauca | Origin and destination |
| Ecuador | Coastal | Origin and destination |
| France | Grasse | Destination |
| United States | New Jersey, California | Destination |
| Switzerland | Nationwide | Destination |
| Germany | Nationwide | Destination |
| United Kingdom | Nationwide | Destination |
| Netherlands | Rotterdam | Destination |
| Spain | Nationwide | Destination |
| Italy | Nationwide | Destination |
| Japan | Nationwide | Destination |
| South Korea | Nationwide | Destination |
| Singapore | Nationwide | Destination |
| United Arab Emirates | Dubai | Destination |
| Turkiye | Nationwide | Destination |
| Mexico | Nationwide | Destination |
| Poland | Nationwide | Destination |
| Australia | Nationwide | Destination |
Origins and destinations outside this list trade on request. We are not limited to the locations shown here.
Timing
Harvest is when the plant material is cut at origin. Arrival is when a shipment from that origin typically lands in a consuming market. The gap between them is distillation, settling, batch testing and the voyage.
HarvestArrival
| Origin | J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D | Window |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Indonesia | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest Jan to Dec, arrival Jan to DecCut and distilled year round on smallholder plots, with peaks after the wet season. Indonesia is the price setting origin and Sulawesi is the price setting island. |
| India | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Harvest | Harvest Mar to Dec, arrival Jan to AugTwo main cutting periods, distilled at estate and cooperative stills. | |
| China | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Harvest | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Arrival | Harvest Jun to Nov, arrival Sep to FebWarm season cutting in the far south. | |||
| Malaysia | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest Jan to Dec, arrival Jan to DecNear continuous, on the same equatorial pattern as Indonesia. |
| Vietnam | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Harvest Apr to Nov, arrival Jan to SepTwo cuts a year. | ||
| Madagascar | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Harvest Mar to Nov, arrival Jan to AugCut around the rains, shipped through Toamasina. | ||
| Philippines | Arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest | Arrival | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Harvest | Harvest Feb to Dec, arrival Jan to JulCut in the drier windows. | ||
| Brazil | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest and arrival | Arrival | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Harvest | Harvest Oct to Mar, arrival Jan to JunSouthern warm season, small but growing supply. | |||
| Sri Lanka | Arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest Feb to Oct, arrival May to JanTwo cuts around the monsoons. |
| Papua New Guinea | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest and arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Harvest Apr to Nov, arrival Jul to FebSmallholder cutting, consolidated for export. |
Windows outside this pattern trade on request, including carry, forward positions and stock already sitting in a destination warehouse.
Customs, packing and contract terms
Indicative terms for patchouli. Tariff classification is the importer’s responsibility and limits change, so confirm both against the destination customs authority and the current regulation before you fix a contract.
- HS heading3301.29 Essential oils, other, including patchouli oil
- PackingEpoxy lined steel drums of 180 kg to 190 kg, aluminium drums or bottles for reactive oils, IBCs for volume grades. Full headspace nitrogen blanket, out of direct sun, away from heat.
- Container loading20ft: 80 drums at roughly 14 t to 15 t. Segregation applies where the oil is classified flammable.
- Contract and arbitrationSale on specification and retained sample with a GC-MS profile and an IFRA conformity certificate. EFEO and IFEAT trade customs. Arbitration under ICC rules or at the contract seat.
- Destination limitsIFRA Standards for restricted materials, EU REACH registration above one tonne per year, CLP classification and labelling given that most oils are flammable and many are sensitisers, allergen declaration under the Cosmetic Products Regulation 1223/2009, CITES for sandalwood, agarwood and rosewood oils, and IMDG class 3 shipping for flammable oils.
Common questions
What grades of patchouli does SIP Global trade?
We quote 54 published grades of patchouli, including Pogostemon cablin - Dried leaf, steam distilled, Leaf drying and fermentation - Declared, with the method and the duration, Dark patchouli - Distilled in an iron still, with the iron content declared, Light or iron free patchouli - Distilled in stainless steel, Redistilled or rectified - Declared, with the fraction and Molecular distilled or decolourised - Declared. Every grade is tied to a delivery point and a settlement route. Grades outside the published list are priced on request.
How is patchouli graded?
Patchouli is traded on the patchoulol figure, on the iron content that produces the dark colour, and on the distillation route. Colour is a specification here, not a cosmetic detail, because it comes from the still and it is contracted. Grading runs on 6 systems: Botanical source and extraction route, Physicochemical identity, Chromatographic profile, Authenticity and adulteration, Contaminants, safety and regulatory and Certification, documentation and packing.
Where does SIP Global trade patchouli?
We trade patchouli in Indonesia, India, China, Malaysia, Vietnam, Philippines, Madagascar and Brazil and 28 further markets. Origins and destinations outside this list trade on request. We are not limited to the locations shown.
When is patchouli harvested and when does it arrive?
Typical windows are Indonesia: harvest jan to dec, arrival jan to dec; India: harvest mar to dec, arrival jan to aug; China: harvest jun to nov, arrival sep to feb; Malaysia: harvest jan to dec, arrival jan to dec; Vietnam: harvest apr to nov, arrival jan to sep. Harvest is when the lot is taken at origin, arrival is when a shipment from that origin lands in a consuming market. Windows outside this pattern, including carry, trade on request.
What is the HS code for patchouli?
Patchouli is normally classified under HS 3301.29 (essential oils, other, including patchouli oil). The heading follows the form the goods are in at the border, and national tariffs extend it beyond six digits, so confirm the full line with the destination customs authority before you fix a contract.
How do I get a price for patchouli?
Send the grade, the origin and the delivery window to the SIP Global desk. That is enough for a trader to come back with a level and a settlement route. 1 listed patchouli market is published on this page, each with its full specification and terms. We take both sides, physical and financial, prompt to long dated.
Standards and data sources
The grading language on this sheet follows published standards. Trade volumes and tariff lines are public record. Verify anything here against the source.
- ISOInternational Organization for Standardization
- UN ComtradeOfficial international trade statistics by HS code
- ITC Trade MapBilateral trade flows and tariff data
- FAOSTATFAO production and trade series for agricultural commodities
Price this with our desk
Grade, origin and window if you have them. If what you are carrying does not fit the sheet above, describe it in your own words and a trader will take it from there.