Mohair
Mohair is the fleece of the Angora goat. It is a long, smooth fibre with a very shallow scale structure, which is why it reflects light the way it does and why lustre is the property the trade prices it for. It is strong, takes dye brilliantly, resists felting and holds a crease, and it is warm without weight. Mohair goes into suiting and tailored cloth, knitwear and brushed sweaters, upholstery and contract seating fabric, throws and blankets, hats and doll hair, and into blends with wool and silk where the objective is lustre and drape rather than bulk. The finest fibre comes from the first shearings of a young animal and the fibre coarsens progressively over the animal life.
Listed mohair markets
Each line is a grade at a delivery point. Open one for its full specification and terms.
Grades
Mohair is contracted on the age class of the animal and the instrument certificate that follows it, with mean fibre diameter, kemp and medullated fibre content, and length the terms that set the price.
Fibre identity and species
5 grades
| Grade | Definition |
|---|---|
| Breed and fibre sourceDeclared | Angora goat fleece. Never confused on a contract with Angora rabbit hair, which is a different animal and a different trade. |
| Age classDeclared | Kids, young goats and adults. The class is the primary sort in the mohair trade because diameter tracks the age of the animal and it never comes back down. |
| Shearing numberDeclared | First, second or subsequent shearing, recorded with the lot. |
| Fleece typeDeclared | Fleece, pieces, bellies, locks or the short and stained lines, separated at classing. |
| Processing stateDeclared | Greasy, scoured, combed top or noil. |
Age and length classification
10 grades
| Grade | Definition |
|---|---|
| Summer kidsClass | The first shearing of a kid taken in the summer season. The finest and highest priced mohair line. |
| Winter kidsClass | The first shearing taken in the winter season. |
| Fine kidsClass | Kid fibre at the fine end of the kid diameter range, separated at classing. |
| Strong kidsClass | Kid fibre at the coarse end of the kid range. |
| Young goatsClass | The second and third shearings, coarser than kid and finer than adult. |
| Fine hairClass | Adult fleece at the finer end of the adult range. |
| Adult hairClass | Full adult fleece, the bulk of the clip by weight, destined for upholstery, blankets and heavier cloth. |
| Strong hairClass | The coarsest adult line. |
| Short linesClass | Staple below the combing length, sold to the woollen and felt systems. |
| Locks and stainedClass | The skirted fraction, sold separately. |
Fineness and dimensional measurement
8 grades
| Grade | Definition |
|---|---|
| Mean fibre diameterMicrons | Measured by laser scan or airflow on a core sample. It is the price term and it is what separates a kid lot from an adult lot on the certificate rather than on the classers word. |
| Coefficient of variation of diameterPercentage | The spread of the diameter distribution. |
| Staple lengthMillimetres | Measured on the greasy staple. Mohair grows long and length is a real value driver in this fibre. |
| Kemp contentCount or percentage by mass, maximum | Short, brittle, hollow, chalky fibres that will not dye. The defining defect of mohair and the term a dyer contracts on. |
| Medullated fibre contentPercentage or count, maximum | Fibres with a hollow core, measured by projection microscope. They scatter light and take dye pale. |
| LustreAgainst the reference sample, or instrumentally | The property mohair is bought for. Assessed against a retained physical standard and, where the contract calls for it, measured as specular reflectance. |
| Staple strengthNewtons per kilotex | Tensile strength of the staple. |
| Fibre curvatureDegrees per millimetre | Mohair sits at the low curvature end of the animal fibres, which is what gives it drape rather than bulk. |
Cleanliness, yield and contamination
7 grades
| Grade | Definition |
|---|---|
| Vegetable matter contentPercentage by mass, maximum | Burr, seed, straw and pasture material, determined by chemical digestion or by carding trial. It is the cost the topmaker carries and it is deducted in the price. |
| YieldPercentage, on a stated basis | Clean fibre recovered from the greasy or raw weight, measured against a defined regain and grease basis. It converts a greasy price to a clean price and it is the number the trade actually settles on. |
| Grease and suint contentPercentage by mass | The natural wax and salt fraction removed in scouring. |
| Regain and moisturePercentage, at the standard atmosphere | Measured under ISO 139. Fibre is bought at a contractual regain, not at whatever it weighs on the day. |
| Dark and medullated fibreCount per unit mass, maximum | Pigmented or hollow fibres that will not take dye evenly. Contracted on any lot destined for pale shades. |
| ContaminationDeclared, zero tolerance where specified | Polypropylene twine, synthetic packaging and foreign fibre. It is the single most damaging defect in a bale and the contract treats it as such. |
| Colour and brightnessY, Z and Y minus Z tristimulus values | Measured instrumentally on a scoured sample. Mohair is bought bright and white and any yellowing limits the shade range. |
Delivery, packing and certification
10 grades
| Grade | Definition |
|---|---|
| Baling and packingDeclared, with the bale weight and the pack material | Pressed bales, hydraulic bales, hanks or bundles, with the wrapping named. Synthetic wrap is excluded where contamination is a contract term. |
| Marking and lot identityDeclared | Bale marks, lot number and the test certificate number, tied to the sample retained by both parties. |
| Test certificateCertificate, with the issuing house | An independent test house certificate is the contract document in this trade and the lot is settled against it. |
| Sampling methodDeclared | Core sampling, grab sampling or full lot testing, with the number of bales sampled written into the contract. |
| Fumigation and phytosanitary treatmentDeclared, with the certificate | Named where the destination requires it for a plant or animal origin fibre. |
| CertificationCertificate, with the scheme and the certificate number | Organic, Responsible Wool, Responsible Alpaca, Responsible Mohair, Fairtrade or a private buyer standard, named on the contract when it is contracted. |
| Clip or crop yearDeclared | The shearing season or the harvest year, recorded with the lot. |
| Shearing seasonDeclared | Summer or winter shear and the year, recorded with the lot. |
| Classing standardDeclared | The national clip preparation and classing standard the classer worked to. |
| CertificationCertificate, with the scheme | Responsible Mohair Standard or an equivalent animal welfare and land management scheme, named where it is contracted. |
Grades outside this list trade on request. Send us the contract specification you work to and we will price against it.
Locations
| Country | Region | We trade it as |
|---|---|---|
| South Africa | Eastern Cape, the Karoo, Jansenville and Graaff-Reinet | Origin and destination |
| Lesotho | the highland districts | Origin and destination |
| United States | Texas, the Edwards Plateau and New Mexico | Origin and destination |
| Turkey | Ankara, Konya and the central Anatolian plateau | Origin and destination |
| Argentina | Neuquen, Rio Negro and Chubut | Origin and destination |
| Australia | New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia | Origin and destination |
| New Zealand | Canterbury and Hawke Bay | Origin and destination |
| Namibia | the Karas and Hardap regions | Origin and destination |
| United Kingdom | England and Wales, small clip | Origin and destination |
| Italy | Biella and Prato, spinning and weaving | Destination |
| China | Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Shandong and Inner Mongolia | Destination |
| United Kingdom | Bradford and West Yorkshire, topmaking and spinning | Destination |
| Japan | Aichi and Osaka | Destination |
| South Korea | Daegu and Gyeonggi | Destination |
| India | Punjab and Rajasthan | Destination |
| Turkey | Bursa and Usak, spinning and weaving | Destination |
| Germany | Baden-Wurttemberg and North Rhine-Westphalia | Destination |
| France | Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes and Occitanie | Destination |
| Portugal | Covilha and Porto | Destination |
| Spain | Catalonia and Castile and Leon | Destination |
| Belgium | the Flemish upholstery and contract fabric cluster | Destination |
| Czech Republic | Moravia, combing and topmaking | Destination |
| Romania | Brasov and Bihor | Destination |
| Bulgaria | Sliven and Gabrovo | Destination |
| Peru | Arequipa and Lima, spinning | Destination |
| Mexico | Puebla and Tlaxcala | Destination |
| Vietnam | Binh Duong and Ho Chi Minh City | Destination |
| Taiwan | Taoyuan and Changhua | Destination |
| Netherlands | the contract seating and interior textile base | Destination |
| Canada | Ontario and Quebec | Destination |
Origins and destinations outside this list trade on request. We are not limited to the locations shown here.
Timing
Harvest is when the fibre is shorn, cut or retted at origin. Arrival is when a shipment from that origin typically lands in a consuming market. The gap between them is classing, testing, baling and the voyage.
HarvestArrival
| Origin | J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D | Window |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| South Africa | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest Mar to Oct, arrival May to DecTwo shears a year, the summer clip shorn around March and April and the winter clip around September and October, offered through the Port Elizabeth auction calendar. This is the reference clip for the world trade. | ||||
| Lesotho | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest Mar to Oct, arrival May to DecOn the South African shearing calendar, with the clip moving out through South African ports and auctions. | ||||
| United States | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest Mar to Oct, arrival May to DecSpring and autumn shearing on the Edwards Plateau, with the clip pooled and warehoused in Texas. | ||||
| Turkey | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest Apr to May, arrival Jun to AugA single spring shear on the Anatolian plateau, largely consumed by the domestic mohair and upholstery industry. | |||||||
| Argentina | Arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Harvest Mar to Nov, arrival May to JanTwo shears, with the Patagonian spring clip the larger of the two. | ||||
| Australia | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest | Harvest | Arrival | Arrival | Harvest Feb to Sep, arrival Apr to NovTwo shears, with the clip small in scale and offered largely on direct contract rather than at auction. |
Windows outside this pattern trade on request, including carry, forward positions and stock already sitting in a destination warehouse.
Customs, packing and contract terms
Indicative terms for mohair. Tariff classification is the importer’s responsibility and limits change, so confirm both against the destination customs authority and the current regulation before you fix a contract.
- HS heading5102.19 Fine animal hair, other than of Kashmir goats, not carded or combed
- PackingCompressed bales. Jute and sisal at 180 kg to 250 kg, animal fibre at 100 kg to 300 kg pressed under hessian or polypropylene wrap, silk in cartons. Bale identification must carry the lot and the test certificate number.
- Container loading20ft: 10 t to 18 t depending on bale density. Wool, cashmere and other animal fibres are volume limited well before weight.
- Contract and arbitrationIWTO Blue Book terms with IWTO core test certificates and arbitration under IWTO rules for wool and fine animal hair. Plant fibres on the contract of the origin trade association or on CIF terms with arbitration at the named seat.
- Destination limitsPhytosanitary certification for plant fibres under Regulation 2016/2031 and veterinary health certification for animal fibre under Regulation 2016/429 and Regulation 142/2011. EU REACH restrictions on residual dyes, biocides and azo colourants. CITES prohibits trade in shahtoosh and controls vicuna.
Common questions
What grades of mohair does SIP Global trade?
We quote 40 published grades of mohair, including Breed and fibre source - Declared, Age class - Declared, Shearing number - Declared, Fleece type - Declared, Processing state - Declared and Summer kids - Class. Every grade is tied to a delivery point and a settlement route. Grades outside the published list are priced on request.
How is mohair graded?
Mohair is contracted on the age class of the animal and the instrument certificate that follows it, with mean fibre diameter, kemp and medullated fibre content, and length the terms that set the price. Grading runs on 5 systems: Fibre identity and species, Age and length classification, Fineness and dimensional measurement, Cleanliness, yield and contamination and Delivery, packing and certification.
Where does SIP Global trade mohair?
We trade mohair in South Africa, Lesotho, United States, Turkey, Argentina, Australia, New Zealand and Namibia and 22 further markets. Origins and destinations outside this list trade on request. We are not limited to the locations shown.
When is mohair harvested and when does it arrive?
Typical windows are South Africa: harvest mar to oct, arrival may to dec; Lesotho: harvest mar to oct, arrival may to dec; United States: harvest mar to oct, arrival may to dec; Turkey: harvest apr to may, arrival jun to aug; Argentina: harvest mar to nov, arrival may to jan. Harvest is when the lot is taken at origin, arrival is when a shipment from that origin lands in a consuming market. Windows outside this pattern, including carry, trade on request.
What is the HS code for mohair?
Mohair is normally classified under HS 5102.19 (fine animal hair, other than of kashmir goats, not carded or combed). The heading follows the form the goods are in at the border, and national tariffs extend it beyond six digits, so confirm the full line with the destination customs authority before you fix a contract.
How do I get a price for mohair?
Send the grade, the origin and the delivery window to the SIP Global desk. That is enough for a trader to come back with a level and a settlement route. 1 listed mohair market is published on this page, each with its full specification and terms. We take both sides, physical and financial, prompt to long dated.
Standards and data sources
The grading language on this sheet follows published standards. Trade volumes and tariff lines are public record. Verify anything here against the source.
- ISOInternational Organization for Standardization
- ASTM InternationalMaterials and test method standards
- IWTOInternational Wool Textile Organisation test methods
- IPPCInternational Plant Protection Convention phytosanitary measures
- UN ComtradeOfficial international trade statistics by HS code
- ITC Trade MapBilateral trade flows and tariff data
- FAOSTATFAO production and trade series for agricultural commodities
Price this with our desk
Grade, origin and window if you have them. If what you are carrying does not fit the sheet above, describe it in your own words and a trader will take it from there.